Apparatus for knitting pockets on a full-fashioned knitting machine



3,318,111 FASHIONED E. SBMON May 9, 1967 APPARATUS FOR KNITTING POCKEI'SON A FULL KNITTING MACHINE Filed June 22, 1966 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig]Fig.5

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APPARATUS FOR KNITTING POCKETS ON A FULE-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINEFiled June 22, 1966 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 f/VVE/VTO/EI EDOUARE. slMoN,deceased b PIERRE JONQUET Attorney /)7 charge 0 H76 est A 7'TOE/VE VSMay 9, 1967 E. saw/mm 3,315,111

APPARATUS FOR KNITTING POCKETS ON A FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINEFiled June 22, 1966 4 SheetB Sheet 3 Fig.3

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APPARATUS FOR KNITTING POCKETS ON A FULL--FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINEFiled June 22, 1966 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 /NVE'/V TOE:

E bow/nab SIMON, disceased by PDEEEE IouquE-T A tier/1e flmfiaye of theestate A TTOENE Y5 United States Patent Ofifice 3,318,111 APPARATUS FORKNITTING POCKET S ON A FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Edouard Simon,deceased, late of Troyes, Aube, France,

by Pierre Jonquet, legal representative, 1315 Rue Paul- Dubois, Troyes,Ache, France, assignor to Etabllssements Simon 5A., Troyes, Auhe,France, a French company Filed June 22, 1966, Ser. No. 559,495 4 Claims.(Cl. 66-89) This is a continuation-in-part of application Serial No.211,335 filed July 20, 1962, now abandoned, and relates generally to theformation of body bulge receiving pockets in selected portions ofarticles knit on a flat bed or fullfashioned Cotton type knittingmachine. More particularly, the present invention is directed to amethod and apparatus for forming fashioned pockets or cups spacedinwardly from the opposite side edges of a garment blank. The pocket isformed by a partial pressing process in which partial courses ofgradually varying lengths are knit by means of an improved presser bladearrangement.

It is known to form heel pockets or tabs in full-fashioned hosiery byknitting on groups of the needles adjacent opposite edges of the hosieryblank while the remaining needles in the center are maintained in aninoperative or non-knitting position. In some cases, the central groupof needles have been maintained in a non-active position by means ofsectioned presser bars. In other instances, all the needles are movedthrough a non-pressing path of travel and pressing of groups of theoutermost needles is accomplished by means of a pair of movable presserplate elements, or by means of narrowing point type beard presserelements. However, the use of these known types of needle pressingdevices has been limited to the knitting of particular types of pockets,mainly heel pockets in hosiery, and they have not been foundsatisfactory for forming pockets of a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an apparatus forforming fashioned pockets which is adaptable for use in the formation ofpockets having a wide variety of different sizes and shapes so that theproper pocket can be knit to fit the required need.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a method ofknitting fashioned pockets by which relatively large pockets may be knitwith the shape required to properly fit any body bulge without unduepressure thereon. The size and shape of the pocket knit in accordancewith the present method may be easily varied by repeating the basicknitting cycle (knitting partial courses of gradually decreasing lengthand courses of gradually increasing length) the required number oftimes.

The objects of the present invention are accomplished by providing threeneedle presser blades and pattern control means for moving the bladesbetween a superposed position and a substantially side-by-side position.When the presser blades are superposed, the minimum length of shortpartial course is knit and when the blades are moved into .asubstantially side-by-side position, the maximum length of partialcourse is knit. The movement of the presser blades between the twoextremes may be carried out in any predetermined cycle so that theprogressive length of the successive partial courses may be increased ordecreased in the desired manner to form a pocket adapted to fit any ofthe bulges or protuberances of the body.

Some of the objects of the invention having been stated, other objectswill appear as the description proceeds when taken in connection withthe accompanying drawings in which-- 3,3 18,1 11 Patented May 9, 1967FIGURE 1 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view through the needle bedof a full-fashioned knitting machine, illustrating the knittinginstrumentalities and the three superposed pressing blades in engagementwith the needles;

FIGURE 2 is a fragmentary isometric view of a portion of one section ofthe knitting machine and showing the manner in which the needle pressingblades of the present invention are supported;

FIGURE 3 is a somewhat schematic plan view of one section of theknitting machine, illustrating the manner in which the movement of thetwo pressing blades is coordinated with the path of travel of the yarncarrier;

FIGURES 4, 5 and 6 are successive schematic views showing the positionsof the three pressing blades at different stages of the knitting cycleduring the formation of the pocket; and

FIGURE 7 is a schematic view illustrating the manner in which aparticular type of pocket is formed by successively decreasing and thenincreasing the length of the partial courses throughout four cycles.

As best shown in FIGURE 1, the conventional parts of the knittingmachine include spring beard needles 103 which are suitably supported attheir lower ends in a needle bed 103a. The needle bed 103a is normallymoved in a substantially vertical motion by conventional means to causethe beards of the needles 103 to engage the presser edge 104 of apresser bar 105 and close the same as the needles move downwardly duringeach knitting cycle. The yarn f is fed toithe needles by yarn carriers,only one of which is shown at 118 in FIGURE 1. The knittinginstrumentalities also include sinkers 111 and knockover knits 111awhich cooperate with the needles 105 in the usual manner to form stitchloops, such as that indicated at m.

The improved partial pressing means of the present invention includesthree pressing blades, a first pressing blade 100 (FIGURES 2 and 3), asecond pressing blade 101, and a third pressing blade 102. The frontends of the blades 101 and 102 are fixed on the rear ends of respectivebrackets 106, 107 which are supported for longitudinal sliding movementalong a shaft 108. The brackets 106, 107 are fixed against rotationalmovement on the shaft 108 by any suitable means, such as key ways, notshown. ,The front end of the first blade 100 is fixed on the rear end ofa bracket 117; the front portion of which is fixed on the shaft 108, asby a set screw 117a (FIG- URES 2 and 3). Thus, the lateral position offirst blade 100 is fixed, relative to the row of needles, and remains inalignment with a group of needles at the center of the needle sectionwhile the blades 101, 102 are supported for lateral movement along theneedle row. The blades 101, 102 may be moved between a superposedposition above the first blade 100 and a substantially side by-sideposition, relative to the center or first blade 100.

During the knitting of a fashioned pocket, the blades 100-102 are movedrearwardly during each knitting cycle, in the direction of the arrow hin FIGURES 1 and 2, so that their inner pressing edges engage theneedles and deflect them into position where their beards willengage thepresser edge 104 and close the hooks as they are lowered to formstitches. This rearward needle pressing motion of the blades 100-102 isaccomplished by supporting the shaft 108 in the upper ends of levers109, 109a (FIGURES 2 and 3), the lower ends of which are fixed on a rockshaft 110. The rocking motion is imparted to the shaft 110 by means of alever 10% which is suitably connected thereto at its upper end and itslowerend is provided with a cam roller 1090 which rides on a cam C(FIGURE 3) during the formation of the fashioned pocket. The cam C isfixed on the main drive shaft AC 3 which rotates in timed relationshipto operation of the knitting machine.

The needle pressing edges of the plates 100102 are supported at theproper height to engage the fronts of the needles 103, as shown inFIGURE 1, by means of a roller 112a (FIGURE 2) which is supported on theforward end of a lever 112 and the rear end of which is fixed on theshaft 108. The roller 112a engages support plate B (FIGURES 2 and 3)which is mounted on the frame of the machine at the proper level tocontrol the height of the presser blades 100-102 as they move into andout of their pressing motions toward and away from the needles 103.

The rear ends of guide arms 113, 114 slidably penetrate downwardlyextending portions of the respective brackets 106, 107 and their frontends are fixed on respective guide rods 115, 116. Control links 115a,116a (FIG- URE 3) operatively connect the respective guide rods 115, 116to respective internally threaded control nuts 115b, 116b. The controlnuts 115b, 1161; are supported on a stop screw spindle having oppositelythreaded portions 115e, 1160. The nuts 115b, 116k are also provided withrespective carrier stops 115d, 116d that are adapted to be engaged byrespective stop buttons 118b, 118a, supported on a yarn carrier rod 118Cand on which the yarn carrier 118 is mounted. The yarn carrier rod 1180is reciproca-ted back and forth in the usual manner and in timedrelationship to operation of the knitting machine so that the stopbuttons 118b, 118a engage the respective stops 115d, 116d and limit thelength of travel of the yarn carrier 118.

During the knitting of a pocket, stepped rotation is imparted to theoppositely threaded portions 115e, 116s of the screw spindle by anysuitable pattern control means, not shown. The screw spindle rotatingmeans may be of the type shown in US. Patent No. 2,489,658, whichincludes a pattern controlled pawl and ratchet mechanism that isoperated by the pattern chain of the machine. Upon stepped rotation ofthe oppositely threaded portions 115e, 116a and corresponding inward oroutward movement of the nuts 115b, 116b, a corresponding amount ofinward or outward lateral movement will be imparted to the respectiveplates 101, 102, by means of the control links 115a, 116a, and thepreviously described connection with the brackets 106, 107. Thus, thenumber of needles pressed by the blades 100-103 corresponds to thenumber of needles which are fed the yarn f by the yarn carrier 118. Asthe blades 101, 102 move outwardly from above the blade 100, the lengthof travel of the yarn carrier 118 is correspondingly increased and asthe blades 101, .102 move inwardly, the length of travel of the yarncarrier 118 is correspondingly decreased.

By utilizing three blades, one fixed and the other two movable between asuperposed position with the fixed blade and a position where they moveinto substantially side-by-side position on opposite sides thereof, thepartial courses in the fashioned pocket can be varied from a lengthequal to the width of all three blades to a length equal to the width ofonly a single blade. Therefore, the gore or suture lines (formed by thejoined together ends of the decreased and increased partial courses) canextend over a greater range than would be the case if only two bladeswere utilized. In the present invention, the fashioning can be reducedto one-third the total available fashioning width. On the other hand, inthe prior types of devices where only two blades are utilized, thefashioning can be reduced to only one-half the total width of thefashioning area available.

It is to be understood that during the knitting of the partial coursesin the formation of a pocket, only those central needles engaged by theforward ends of pressing edges of the presser blades 100, 102 will beactive and forming stitch loops and the remaining needles on oppositesides are maintained inactive, hold their stitch loops and do not knit.There are several ways by which pressing of the outermost inactiveneedles can be prevented. For example, the normal knitting path of theneedles may be modified so that they do not move against the presseredge 104 of the presser bar 105 in their downward stroke. In thismodified needle motion, the needles are not moved rearwardly asufficient distance to engage their beards with the presser edge 104 asthey are moved downwardly and therefore, only those needles movedrearwardly a sufiicient distance by the pressing blades -102 will havetheir beards closed and form stitch loops. The needle motion may bemodified to accomplish this by any suitable mechanism, such as thatdisclosed in U.S. Patent No. 2,489,658.

The method and apparatus of the present invention may be utilized informing partial courses of varying lengths to form a wide variety ofdifferent shapes and sizes of fashioned pockets in any of severaldifferent types of garments. In order to more clearly understand theoperation of the apparatus of the present invention, the method will bedescribed in connection with the type of pocket shown in FIGURES 47.This particular type of pocket has been found to be suitable for use inthe lower portion of the front panel of a mans brief-type under-garment,such as that disclosed in copending application Serial No. 397,773.

In FIGURE 4, it is assumed that one end of the garment blank has beenknit to the point where the pocket is to be formed in the centralportion. The last full course of the garment blank, before beginning theknitting of gradually decreasing partial courses, is made between A andF. The first knitted partial course of the pocket is made between B andE with the blades 100, 101 nd 102 in substantially side-by-siderelationship, with the stitch loops held on idle needles between A, Band E, F, as schematically shown in FIGURE 4. As knitting of the pocketcontinues, the blades 101, 102 are gradually stepped inwardly togradually decrease the lengths of successive partial courses until theblades reach the superposed position shown in FIGURE 5, at which time apartial course of minimum length is knit between C and D. As knitting ofthe pocket is continued, the blades 101, 102 move outwardly in astep-by-step manner, thereby gradually increasing the lengths of thepartial courses and joining the ends thereof to the ends of thepreviously knit partial courses of decreasing length, until the lastcourse is knit with the blades in the substantially side-bysiderelationship schematically shown in FIGURE 6, at which time a partialcourse of maximum width is knit between B and E. The formation of asingle group of partial courses of gradually decreased length and asingle group of partial courses of gradually increased length will forma small pocket or bulge in the fabric. In order to obtain a sizeablepocket, it is necessary to repeat the above-described decreasing andincreasing cycle a number of times.

The pocket schematically shown in FIGURE 7 includes four decreasing andincreasing cycles, as indicated at I, II, III and IV. As a specific butnon-limiting example, the first portion of the garment blank is knitwith the required fashioning to the course extending between A and F,which is knit on 124- needles. The first course of the pocket, extendingbetween B and E, is knit on 104 needles. The travel of the threadcarrier and overall width of the presser blades are reduced by twoneedles on each of the decreasing partial courses during the knitting of16 successive courses so as to reduce the knitting width to 40 needleswhen the course between C1 and D1 is knit. At this time, the presserblades are superposed and disposed between C and D to complete the firstdecreasing cycle.

The travel of the yarn carrier and the overall width of the presserblades are then increased by two needles on each of the sides of eachpartial course so that at the knitting of the 32nd course, between B1and E1, 104 needles are again in action. This completes the knitting 0fthe first increasing cycle with the presser blades in substantiallyside-by-side condition and extending between B and E. It is understoodthat as the gradually increasing courses are knit, the endmost loops arejoined to the endmost loops of the corresponding decreasing courses inthe previous sec-tion to form suture or gore lines therebetween.

Upon completion of the first Section I, it may be desirable to knit twocourses the complete width of the fabric, extending between All and F1.The outer portions of these two courses, as indicated by the linesextending between A1, B1 and E1, F1, are joined to the previously heldstitch loops between A, B and E, F. The preceding steps are repeated inthe knitting of Sections II, III and IV to form corresponding cycles ofdecreasing and increasing partial courses in each section. Uponcompletion of the knitting of the pocket, the full course A to F is knitand then the remaining portion of the garment blank is completed.

Although the movement of the movable blades 1111, 102 has been describedas being symmetrical, i.e., moving outwardly and inwardly by equalamounts, it is to be understood that the blades may also be moved inuneven amounts to produce non-symmetrical pockets, if desired.

In the drawings and specification there has been set forth a preferredembodiment of the invention and, although specific terms are employed,they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and not forpurposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being defined in theclaims.

What is claimed:

1. In a multiple section full-fashioned knitting machine, each sectionincluding a needle presser bar, a row of spring beard needles, saidneedles being movable adjacent one side of said needle presser bar to attimes impart a pressing motion to all the needles in unison during eachknitting cycle and at other times to prevent pressing of the needles,and means for feeding yarn to the needles to form a selvedged width offabric; the combination therewith of means for forming a pocket in acentral portion of the fabric comprising (a) three needle pressingblades operable upon a central group of adjacent needles to move thesame into engagement with said presser bar and to close the beardsthereof,

(b) means for supporting one of said needle pressing blades in a fixedposition longitudinally of said row of needles and for moving the othertwo needle pressing blades in a selective step-by-step manner between asuperposed position with said one needle pressing blade and a positionadjacent opposite sides of said one blade where all three blades are ina substantially side-by-side position, said blades being engageable withincreasing and decreasing numbers of adjacent needles in successivecourses, said selective step-bystep movement of said other two needlepressing blades occurring between the knitting of successive courses,and

(c) means for restricting the longitudinal travel of said yarn feedmeans to a distance corresponding to the number of adjacent needlesoperated upon by said needle pressing blades and to thereby formsuccessive partial courses of varying lengths that correspond to thenumber of needles engaged by said needle pressing blades.

2. An apparatus according to claim 1 wherein said needle pressing bladesare each substantially the same width.

3. An apparatus according to claim 2 wherein said support means (b)comprises (1) a support shaft extending parallel to and spaced forwardlyof the row of needles,

(2) a bracket fixed on said support shaft and supporting said one needlepressing blade, and

(3) a pair of brackets supported for longitudinal movement along saidsupport shaft and adjacent opposite sides of said fixed bracket, saidmovable brackets each supporting one of the other needle pressingblades.

4. An apparatus according to claim 3 including (4) a pair of guide rodsextending parallel to and spaced forwardly of said support shaft,

(5) a guide arm connected to each of said guide rods and having freerear ends slidably penetrating portions of said pair of brackets, and

(6) means connected to said guide rods for imparting longitudinalstepped movement thereto in opposite directions to thereby impart likemovement to said movable needle pressing blades.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,515,667 11/1924Esche 1- 66187 1,798,804 3/1931 Parker 66-187 2,132,135 10/1938 Taylor66-88 2,222,154 11/ 1940 Noble 66-98 2,475,447 7/1949 Colton 66-893,252,306 5/ 1966 Bentley et al 66101 XR FOREIGN PATENTS 148,443 9/ 1952Australia. 581,361 7/1933 Germany.

MERVIN STEIN, Primary Examiner.

W. C. REYNOLDS, Assistant Examiner.

1. IN A MULTIPLE SECTION FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE, EACH SECTIONINCLUDING A NEEDLE PRESSER BAR, A ROW OF SPRING BEARD NEEDLES, SAIDNEEDLES BEING MOVABLE ADJACENT ONE SIDE OF SAID NEEDLE PRESSER BAR TO ATTIMES IMPART A PRESSING MOTION TO ALL THE NEEDLES IN UNISON DURING EACHKNITTING CYCLE AND AT OTHER TIMES TO PREVENT PRESSING OF THE NEEDLES,AND MEANS FOR FEEDING YARN TO THE NEEDLES TO FORM A SELVEDGED WIDTH OFFABRIC; THE COMBINATION THEREWITH OF MEANS FOR FORMING A POCKET IN ACENTRAL PORTION OF THE FABRIC COMPRISING (A) THREE NEEDLE PRESSINGBLADES OPERABLE UPON A CENTRAL GROUP OF ADJACENT NEEDLES TO MOVE THESAME INTO ENGAGEMENT WITH SAID PRESSER BAR AND TO CLOSE THE BEARDSTHEREOF, (B) MEANS FOR SUPPORTING ONE OF SAID NEEDLE PRESSING BLADES INA FIXED POSITION LONGITUDINALLY OF SAID ROW OF NEEDLES AND FOR MOVINGTHE OTHER TWO NEEDLE PRESSING BLADES IN A SELECTIVE STEP-BY-STEP MANNERBETWEEN A SUPERPOSED POSITION WITH SAID ONE NEEDLE PRESSING BLADE AND APOSITION ADJACENT OPPOSITE SIDES OF SAID ONE BLADE WHERE ALL THREEBLADES ARE IN A SUBSTANTIALLY SIDE-BY-SIDE POSITION, SAID BLADES BEINGENGAGEABLE WITH INCREASING AND DECREASING NUMBERS OF ADJACENT NEEDLES INSUCCESSIVE COURSES, SAID SELECTIVE STEP-BYSTEP MOVEMENT OF SAID OTHERTWO NEEDLE PRESSING BLADES OCCURRING BETWEEN THE KNITTING OF SUCCESSIVECOURSES, AND